We used a two part epoxy primer from Interlux. It rolled on thick and will need a light sanding before paint. The screws in the bow are left so we don't lose the holes for reattaching the stainless stem band. And always wear your protective respirators kids...the fumes are no joke!
I sand between coats with 400 grit to level the finish. Two more coats will be added to build up a tough, durable topcoat.
Remove the Tape
Parks stands ever vigilant pointing out every nib, sag and run
Port side View
I lay out a racing stripe by eye, I start by applying blue tape to the existing transition between paint and varnish. I then lay two more pieces of tape on either side to establish the width of the stripe.
Remove the center tape
The racing stripe is revealed when the center tape is removed
Repeat the process on the starboard side
Jack White would be proud
Apply the Stainless Keel protection
I installed a 1 1/2" piece of stainless half oval to the keel. The stainless will add protection to the mahogany underneath
Attach the Stainless Jewelry
The half oval keel is attached with 1 1/2" #14 screws countersunk 6" on center and bedded in a generous glob of 5200 adhesive for water resistance
Trim the Overhanging Fiberglass
Excess fiberglass is removed at the shear line using a utility knife. I will come back later and sand flush with the shear line
Varnish the Transom
I lost track of the numerous coats of varnish on the transom.
One more coat...
This one is for Ruth. You can never have enough.
Measuring for the bow eye
I need to determine where the bow eye will be mounted on the stem. I will need to cut an opening in the stainless steel bow rub rail, in order to accomodate the mounting.
I found some of this super futuristic jig making material in the shop and used it to create a drilling jig to accurately drill a perpendicular hole through the bow. The space aged substance is hard like metal, but cuts easily with woodworking tools. I dubbed it "Jigaranium".